Sleepy Baby Bear & Bunny Lovey Blankets
- Alanna
- Jun 18
- 11 min read
Updated: Jun 24
Do you want to crochet a sweet and snuggly baby lovey blanket? In this step-by-step tutorial, you'll learn how to make the Sleepy Baby Bear & Bunny Lovey Blankets - a beginner-friendly crochet project combining simple granny square techniques with basic amigurumi. Whether you’re confident with blankets or new to shaping heads and ears, this pattern will help build your skills and confidence.
You’ll practice spiral rounds, magic rings, and a range of stitches including double crochet, front post stitches, and even a treble! These loveys are also designed to match the Sleepy Baby Bear & Bunny Stick Rattles for a perfect handmade gift set.
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Thoughtfully designed!
The Sleepy Baby Bear & Bunny Lovey is designed with both beginner crocheters and amigurumi makers in mind. Whether you’re confident with granny squares but new to amigurumi, or an amigurumi lover unsure about blanket-making, this pattern brings the best of both worlds together. It also pairs beautifully with the matching Stick Rattles to create the perfect handmade gift set.
As you crochet the head and ears, you’ll learn to work in spiral rounds using single crochet - an essential amigurumi skill. The blanket begins with a magic ring and includes a variety of stitches like double crochet, front post double crochet, chain stitches, and even treble crochet, expanding your crochet repertoire and helping you build skills and confidence as you go.
You'll find the full pattern is included at the bottom of this blog post.
Not ready to crochet just yet? - Pin it now, make it later!

Let's Talk Yarn!
For the Sleepy Baby Bear & Bunny Lovey, I chose a soft, high-quality cotton yarn that's perfect for baby makes. Cotton is a fantastic choice for baby crochet toys because it's breathable, gentle on sensitive skin, durable, and machine washable - a must for anything that's sure to be well-loved and snuggled!
It also provides excellent stitch definition, which helps bring out the details in both the lovey blanket and the amigurumi features. Plus, cotton's natural fibres give a beautiful, clean finish that holds its shape well, making it ideal for heirloom-quality baby gifts.

Let's Get Started!
Ready to get started on this free crochet Sleepy Baby Bear & Bunny Lovey Blanket pattern? Grab your yarn and hook, and let’s begin! I hope you enjoy every stitch from start to finish.
Not ready to crochet this Blanket? Pin it now, make it later!

© 2025 Theodore And Rose - Alanna O'Dea. All rights reserved. This pattern is for PERSONAL USE ONLY! No part of this pattern may be published, resold, reproduced (in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, recording or otherwise), shared, translated or altered without prior permission in writing from the author. You cannot form or sell kits for my patterns without my written permission. You are permitted to sell the finished items made from my patterns, on the condition that they are handmade by yourself and you credit Alanna O'Dea (Theodore And Rose) as the designer. All Theodore And Rose toys are original designs. I dedicate considerable effort to creating these crochet designs, writing patterns, capturing photographs, and providing friendly customer service. Please honour my hard work by crediting me whenever you share items made using my patterns. Thank you. |
Skill Level
Easy (see details of project levels at Craft Yarn Council)
Materials
Materials for the presented lovey blanket are listed below; materials can be substituted at your discretion.
Hook: 2.5mm (US C/2) and 4mm (US G/6)
Yarn: DK cotton yarn 100-120g. The example bear and bunny loveys were made using Heirloom Cotton 8 ply (120m/50g) in shades Oat (6630) and Parchment (6617) for the bears and Glacier (6619) and Snow (6607) for the bunnies.
Black embroidery cotton for the eyes and nose
Toy stuffing - approximately 40g
Stitch marker
Embroidery scissors
Yarn needle
Gauge / Tension
Blanket Gauge: 19 stitches and 9 rows in double crochet = 10cm x 10cm.
Amigurumi Gauge: 5 rounds = 3.7cm across (Note: crochet the first 5 rounds of the head to use as a gauge swatch).
Finished Size
The finished blanket is approximately 33cm x 33cm; the head is approximately 22cm in diameter.
Pattern Notes
US crochet terms used throughout
Gauge is not important for this project
Read the entire pattern before you start.
Be sure to check out my Beginner's Guide to Amigurumi & Crochet page for helpful tips and techniques on essentials like the magic ring, invisible decrease, two ways to single crochet, how to determine the right and wrong side of your work and more, all invaluable aids for crocheting this pattern.
When working amigurumi parts (head and ears), work stitches in a continuous spiral, without closing the round off with a slip stitch (slst) unless otherwise instructed.
Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round, moving it up as you work. This helps to keep track of the round and when counting your stitches to compare it to the pattern.
I use the 'X' single crochet method for amigurumi parts as opposed to the traditional 'V' stitch method. This results in a tighter fabric and the finished toy ends up smaller than when using the traditional method. If you need further information on he difference between the two ways to make a single crochet, you can read more about it HERE.
To prevent the fabric from showing large stretch holes when stuffed, choose a smaller hook size than that recommended on the ball sleeve of your yarn.
Stuff firmly unless instructed otherwise. Insert small amounts at a time until you get the right look. Stuffing your toy can be tricky, but it is a very important step in achieving the right shape and look for your toy: overstuffing might stretch the fabric too far and show gaps, and understuffing will give your toy a deflated look. Take your time with this step, shaping as you go.
To help you when sewing pieces together, first pin them into place and check that you are happy with the positioning.
Always leave long enough yarn ends where instructed so that they can be used for sewing later.
Abbreviations (US crochet terms)
[...] 'X' times = work instructions within brackets, as a sequence, as many times as directed
ch = chain (yarn over, pull through)
CL = cluster (see Special Stitches section below)
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
ps = puff stitch (see Special Stitches below)
Rnd/s = round/s
slst = slip stitch (Insert hook, yarn over, pull through both stitch and loop on hook)
sp = space
st/s = stitch/es
tr = treble

Sleepy Baby Bear & Bunny Lovey Blankets Pattern
Head
Using the 2.5mm (US C/2) hook and chosen yarn, make a magic ring (View tutorial on HERE)
Rnd 1: ch 1, sc 6 into magic ring. Pull the ring closed. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: sc inc in each st around (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [sc in next st, sc inc in next st] 6 times (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [sc in next 2 sts, sc inc in next st] 6 times (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [sc in next 3 sts, sc inc in next st] 6 times (30 sts)
Rnd 6: sc in next 2 sts, sc inc in next st, [sc in next 4 sts, sc inc in next st] 5 times, sc in next 2 sts (36 sts)
Rnd 7: [sc in next 5 sts, sc inc in next st] 6 times (42 sts)
Rnd 8: sc in next 3 sts, sc inc in next st, [sc in next 6 sts, sc inc in next st] 5 times, sc in next 3 sts (48 sts)
Rnd 9-19: sc in each st around (48 sts) (11 Rnds)
Rnd 20: sc in next 3 sts, dec, [sc in next 6 sts, dec] 5 times, sc in next 3 sts (42 sts)
Rnd 21: [sc in next 5 sts, dec] 6 times (36 sts)
Rnd 22: sc in next 2 sts, dec, [sc in next 4 sts, dec] 5 times, sc in next 2 sts (30 sts)
Rnd 23: [sc in next 3 sts, dec] 6 times (24 sts)
Rnd 24: Work all sts in this round in BLO: [sc in next 2 sts, dec] 6 times (18 sts)
Note: This BLO round will act as a guide when attaching the head to the blanket.
Stuff the head firmly with fibrefill, taking your time and shaping as you go.
Rnd 25: [sc in next st, dec] 6 times (12 sts)
Rnd 26: [dec] 6 times (6 sts)
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through the FLO of Rnd 26 and pull firmly to close off the head. You can find a tutorial on how to close your stitches HERE.
Bear Ears (make 2)
Using the 2.5mm (US C/2) hook and chosen yarn, make a magic ring.
Rnd 1: ch 1, sc 6 into magic ring. Pull the ring closed. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: sc inc in each st around (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [sc in next st, sc inc in next st] 6 times (18 sts)
Rnd 4: sc in each st around (18 sts)
Rnd 5: [sc in next st, dec] 6 times (12 sts)
Rnd 6: sc in each st around (12 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail. Sew the ears to the top of the head between rounds 6-10 on either side.
Bunny Ears (make 2)
Using the 2.5mm (US C/2) hook and chosen yarn, make a magic ring.
Rnd 1: ch 1, sc 4 into magic ring. Pull the ring closed. (4 sts)
Rnd 2: sc inc in each st around (8 sts)
Rnd 3: [sc in next st, sc inc in next st] 4 times (12 sts)
Rnd 4: [sc in next 2 sts, sc inc in next st] 4 times (16 sts)
Rnd 5: [sc in next 3 sts, sc inc in next st] 4 times (20 sts)
Rnd 6: [sc in next 4 sts, sc inc in next st] 4 times (24 sts)
Rnd 7-13: sc in each st around (24 sts) (7 Rnds)
Rnd 14: [sc in next 10 sts, dec] 2 times (22 sts)
Rnd 15: [sc in next 9 sts, dec] 2 times (20 sts)
Rnd 16: [sc in next 8 sts, dec] 2 times (18 sts)
Rnd 17: sc in each st around (18 sts)
Rnd 18: [sc in next 7 sts, dec] 2 times (16 sts)
Rnd 19-20: sc in each st around (16 sts) (2 Rnds)
Do not stuff the ear. Flatten the top together and sc 8 sts through both layers to close the opening. Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing the ear to the head.
Pinch the ears together and using the yarn tail, secure in place with a couple of stitches.
Sew the ears to the top of the head between rounds 5 and 6 on either side.

Arms (make 2)
Using the 2.5mm (US C/2) hook and chosen yarn, make a magic ring.
Rnd 1: ch 1, sc 6 into magic ring. Pull the ring closed. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: [sc in next st, sc inc in next st] 3 times (9 sts)
Rnd 3: [sc in next 2 sts, sc inc in next st] 3 times (12 sts)
Rnd 4-22: sc in each st around (12 sts) (19 Rnds)
Fill arms with a small amount of fiberfill (concentrated mostly in the hands).
Flatten the top together and sc 6 sts through both layers to close the opening. Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing the arms to the blanket later.
Blanket
Using the 4mm (US G/6) hook and chosen yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, make a magic ring.
Rnd 1: ch 4 (counts as 1st tr throughout), into magic ring work 4 dc, [tr, 4 dc] 3 times. Pull the magic ring closed. Join Rnd with a slst into top of beg ch-4 (20 sts) Note: tr stitch forms cnrs.
Rnd 2: ch 4, work 2 dc into cnr tr (the base of the ch-4), [dc in each st across side to next cnr tr, into cnr tr work (2 dc, tr, 2 dc)] 3 times. Dc in each st across side to beg cnr tr, work 2 dc into beg cnr tr to finish. Join Rnd with a slst into top of beg ch-4 (36 sts)
Rnd 3: ch 5 (counts as dc and a ch 2 sp throughout), work 2 dc into cnr tr, [dc in each st across side to next cnr tr, into cnr tr work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc)] 3 times. Dc in each st across side to beg cnr tr, work dc into beg cnr tr to finish. Join Rnd with a slst into 3rd ch of beg ch-5 (48 sts & 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 4: slst into ch-2 sp, ch 4, work 2 dc into same ch-2 sp, [dc in each st across side to next ch-2 sp, into ch-2 sp work (2 dc, tr, 2 dc)] 3 times. Dc in each st across side to beg ch-2 sp, work 2 dc into 1st ch-2 sp to finish. Join Rnd with a slst into top of beg ch-4 (68 sts)
Rnd 5: repeat Rnd 3 (80 sts & 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 6: repeat Rnd 4 (100 sts)
Rnd 7: repeat Rnd 3 (112 sts & 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 8: repeat Rnd 4 (132 sts)
Rnd 9: repeat Rnd 3 (144 sts & 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 10: repeat Rnd 4 (164 sts)
Rnd 11: repeat Rnd 3 (176 sts & 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 12: slst into ch-2 sp, ch 4, 2 dc in same sp, [(work a FPdc around 1st dc post, dc in next st) 22 times, into ch-2 sp work (2 dc, tr, 2 dc)] 3 times. Next (work a FPdc around 1st dc post, dc in next st) 22 times, work 2 dc into ch-2 sp to finish Rnd. Join Rnd with a slst into top of beg ch-4 (196 sts)
Rnd 13: ch 4, 2 dc into same cnr tr, [(dc into next st, work a FPdc around next dc post) 24 times, into cnr tr work (2 dc, tr, 2 dc)] 3 times. Next (work dc into next st, work a FPdc around next dc post) 24 times, work 2 dc into cnr tr to finish Rnd. Join Rnd with a slst into top of beg ch-4 (212 sts)
Rnd 14: ch 4, 2 dc into same cnr tr, [(work a FPdc around 1st dc post, dc in next st) 26 times, into cnr tr work (2 dc, tr, 2 dc)] 3 times. Next (work a FPdc around 1st dc post, dc in next st) 26 times, work 2 dc into cnr tr to finish Rnd. Join Rnd with a slst into top of beg ch-4 (228 sts)
Rnd 15: ch 2 (counts as hdc), sc into same st, [sc into each st across to next cnr tr, (sc, hdc, sc) into cnr tr] 3 times, sc into each st across to beg cnr tr, sc into beg cnr tr to finish Rnd. Join Rnd with a slst into top of beg ch-2 (236 sts)
Fasten off. Weave in finishing yarn tail only.
Embroidery Work On Your Lovey
Embroider the eyes, nose and eyebrows on to the head with black thread. I placed the eyes and the top of the nose between rounds 16 and 17 with 9 stitches between the eyes. Use pink yarn to add little pink cheeks under the eyes.
TIP: Bring the yarn up from the base of the head and return thread to the base when finished. Here you now can easily secure the yarn tails and the blanket will hide it all later for a professionally neat finish.

Lovey Blanket Assembly
Step 1: Lay the blanket flat and position the head on the blanket with the face centred on a diagonal with the blanket seam (starting point of each round) at the back.

Carefully pin into position, turn your work over and using the long yarn tail from the head, sew an ‘X’, being sure to pass through both the blanket and the head together.


Step 2: Position the arms and sew securely to the blanket.
CONGRATULATIONS!!!
Your Sleepy Baby Lovey is Finished!
Not ready to crochet just yet? - Pin it now, make it later!

Share Your Work!.
I hope you found my tutorial helpful! If you have any questions or just want to say hello, feel free to leave me a comment below - I'd love to hear from you.
If you're not ready to start just yet, don't forget to save this pattern to your Pinterest board so you can easily find it later.
I'd absolutely love to see your version of the Sleepy Baby Lovey Blanket ! If you would like to share, be sure to tag your photos with @theodoreandrose or #theodoreandrose on Instagram or Facebook - it always makes my day to see your beautiful makes.
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